This is my latest project which has been a learning process. I decided I wanted to draft my own pant/jean pattern as I haven’t done a lot of drafting since I studied it about 15 years ago. All of my blocks were made to my measurements (pre kids) back then so I think my body shape has changed slightly.I love all of the floral printed jeans and pants that are around at the moment so I found some fabric at Spotlight which is a cotton with about 5% spandex. I decided to get some cheapish fabric because I knew that I would have more than one attempt at them. I also started collecting pictures on my Pinterest page.
The first pair that I mocked up in a similar fabric which I had lying around and they were a really bad fit. The crotch depth was about 6cm too long! I got my drafting bible out which is Pattern Making for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong and got some tips on how to fit them properly. I also downloaded the lesson on craftsy by from Sandra Betzina which really helped alot.
So, to correct this I had to pin up the excess and measure. I drew a grainline starting from the first dart straight down the pant then squared a line from 1″ below the crotch point across to this grainline. I also squared a line from the hip line. This then became my X section. I cut out the X section and moved it up by the adjustment needed. Does this make sense? Probably not but it does work.I added a yoke to the back and deleted the dart. I was going to add a little coin pocket and belt loops but thought I might leave that until my next pair after I get the fit exact. These are still not perfect. I need to adjust the outer leg seam as it is a bit off at the ankle and take some more off at the seat. I could probably add 1 or 2 cms to the waistline!! A bit on the tight side when I sit down. Although that could be the extra couple of sausages I had last night.